2014 Henschke Mount Edelstone – Eden Valley, SA $225

The 2012 Mount Edelstone celebrated the centenary of the vineyard and the 60th bottling of this single vineyard Shiraz. Now suddenly the 2014 has suddenly popped up, as Stephen Henschke is holding the bolder 2013 vintage for another year. From the first sip, it’s easy to understand why, for this finely balanced, graceful shiraz is immensely drinkable right – especially given a little air. It tells of its Eden Valley heritage with perfumes of violets, dark cherries and ripe plums and a lift of all-spice. The perfectly poised palate offers succulent flavours of the same fruits with silky tannins flowing across the mouth. It will hit its straps from 2025, if you can wait.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017

2013 Vieux Telegraphe Le Télégramme Châteauneuf du Pape – Rhone Valley $99

The Brunier family has been in Châteauneuf since the late 19th century – growing from 1 to 60 hectares of vines over 4 generations. Their top Châteauneuf du Pape carries the name Le Crau from the stony plateau on which the vineyard is planted. Le Télégramme comes from ‘younger’ 30+ year old vines –80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 4% Cinsault. Ripe cherry and raspberry with lots of sweet spices – star anise and cinnamon bark. The juicy palate offers the same red fruits with wild Provençal herbs and abundant yet finely honed tannins. The distinct umami flavoured finish completes the picture.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017

 

2014 Marques de Riscal Proximo – Rioja, Spain $10

This perennial favourite deserves to be pushed back into the limelight. Why, because it’s a dangerously drinkable red from a benchmark bodega and a shining example of tempranillo’s amazing versatility. On one hand, tempranillo is a long lived, deeply complex, well-structured variety in the guise of a Rioja Gran Reserva. At the other end of the spectrum is this red fruited, savoury flavoured, everyday red, sourced from young tempranillo vines and made to be drunk young – and often. A modest 13.5% alcohol helps its drinkability, as would a gentle chill on a warm day.  Perfect with patatas bravas.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017

2014 Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge Shiraz – Grampians, Victoria $30

Ben Haines is making his winemaking mark at Mount Langi, this white pepper spiced Shiraz a shining example. Ben worked with Don Lewis at Mitchelton before joining the Rathbone Family’s Yering Station and then progressing to running their western Victorian outpost.  The echo of Trevor Mast remains with the freshness and energy of this mid-weight yet tightly focused Cliff Edge Shiraz. It’s an intense garnet red with abundant aromas of a Middle Eastern spice cabinet – especially star anise and clove. The wiry frame is clothed in bright red and black fruit flavours with a taut thread of pumice-like tannins carrying the finish.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017

2013 Sub Rosa Nebbiolo – Grampians, Victoria $25

Adam Louder belies his name – as he’s a quietly spoken man, who started his career in the Grampians at Best’s, then Mount Langi almost 20 years ago. Gigs in Margaret River, Bordeaux and the Napa Valley built his winemaking experience but now he’s back in the Grampians with a new baby and a new wine brand.  Shiraz is Louder’s focus with a foray into nebbiolo for a bit of fun. It’s sourced from the Mt. Cole vineyard and handmade with minimal intervention. It’s a lithe framed red, bright and breezy with sweet red fruit perfumes and flavours, supple tannins and a gently persuasive finish. Squaff with a pizza Margherita.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017

2015 Trentham Estate The Family Nero d’Avola – Murray Darling, NSW $15

Trentham Estate was established at Trentham Cliffs in 1988 by brothers, Anthony and Patrick Murphy inspired by their father Jack’s pioneering winegrowing.   The Murphy ‘boys’ fly under the radar yet produce a swathe of remarkable wines – at bargain basement prices. Mainstream varieties are taken to the pinnacle under the Family Reserve label with fruit sourced as far afield as Tasmania.  The Family series is devoted to Italianate varieties inclining Nebbiolo and this Sicilian black grape.  Dark cherries and Damson plums with a whiff of aniseed lead to a mid-weight yet more than flavoursome palate that is shaped by mild-mannered tannins and refreshed with a juicy acidity.

GT WINE Magazine, June/July 2017